KASHMIRI SHAWL IN AFGHAN PERIOD
The Afghan invasion in 1753 by Ahmad Shah Abdali put an end
to the Mughal rule in Kashmir. In theses 67 years of afghan rule Kashmir has
seen the lowest depth of penury and degradation. In afghan rule ninety firms
established by Hindu businessmen were closed down, and the life and prosperity
of all foreigners who has been residing in Kashmir is threatened and they went
their home land ,while nearly half population of Kashmir left the
terror-stricken land permanently
nevertheless shawl weaving continued during these difficult times and
accounted for a significant portion of Kashmir revenue the shawl’s
popularity abroad resulted in brisk
trade
The darkest period of Kashmir’s history occurred during the
regime of the afghan governor Haji Dab Khan(1776-1783)Because he imposed a
heavy tax on the shawl weaving trade, and began the system of ‘dagshawl’or
excise-tax on shawls which later became such a burden for the poor shawl
weavers that they even preferred death to the weaver’s profession. Bamzai
explains that the dagshawl system first
developed out to the need by the state
to seek more taxes than that which it already received through the
usurious sale of saffron and grain. In lieu of taxes from such produce, Haji Dad khan taxed the weavers directly,who then numbered 12000, with a small tax
called Qasur-i-shali this too was abolished and a new Ad valorem tax was
imposed on every shawl manufactured. By 1813 when Azim khan was the governor of
Kashmir, the number of looms rose to 24000 Azim brought back the forcible sale
of grain to the weavers but kept the ad valorem tax thus the poor
weaver was squeezed into debt
The price at the loom
of an ordinary shawl is eight rupee, thence in proportional quality , it
produces from fifteen to twenty; and I have seen a very fine piece sold at
forty rupees the cost . but the value of
this commodity may be largely enhanced by the introduction of flowered work;and
when you are informed that the sum of one hundred rupees is occasionally given
for a shawl to the weaver, the half amount may be fairly ascribed to the
ornaments.
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