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Shawls in kashmir ( Afghan period)

                                 KASHMIRI  SHAWL IN AFGHAN PERIOD


The Afghan invasion in 1753 by Ahmad Shah Abdali put an end to the Mughal rule in Kashmir. In theses 67 years of afghan rule Kashmir has seen the lowest depth of penury and degradation. In afghan rule ninety firms established by Hindu businessmen were closed down, and the life and prosperity of all foreigners who has been residing in Kashmir is threatened and they went their home land ,while nearly half population of Kashmir left the terror-stricken land permanently  nevertheless shawl weaving continued during these difficult times and accounted for a significant portion of Kashmir revenue the shawl’s popularity  abroad resulted in brisk trade


The darkest period of Kashmir’s history occurred during the regime of the afghan governor Haji Dab Khan(1776-1783)Because he imposed a heavy tax on the shawl weaving trade, and began the system of ‘dagshawl’or excise-tax on shawls which later became such a burden for the poor shawl weavers that they even preferred death to the weaver’s profession. Bamzai explains that the dagshawl  system first developed out to the need by the state  to seek more taxes than that which it already received through the usurious sale of saffron and grain. In lieu of taxes from such produce, Haji Dad khan taxed the weavers directly,who then numbered 12000, with a small tax called Qasur-i-shali this too was abolished and a new Ad valorem tax was imposed on every shawl manufactured. By 1813 when Azim khan was the governor of Kashmir, the number of looms rose to 24000 Azim brought back the forcible sale of grain to the weavers but kept the ad valorem tax thus  the poor  weaver was squeezed into debt 

The price at the  loom of an ordinary shawl is eight rupee, thence in proportional quality , it produces from fifteen to twenty; and I have seen a very fine piece sold at forty rupees  the cost . but the value of this commodity may be largely enhanced by the introduction of flowered work;and when you are informed that the sum of one hundred rupees is occasionally given for a shawl to the weaver, the half amount may be fairly ascribed to the ornaments.

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